Excerpts from the Educational Programs at the 2008 ICCA Summit in Portland Portland is truly one of the most sustainable farm-to-table markets in the United States and ICCA members met some of the leaders in this movement during the ICCA 6th Annual, Summit from June 22 – 25, 2008. Greg Higgins, chef owner of Higgins Restaurant stated, “Twenty-five years ago I had a hard time finding a farmer and there were only three farmer’s markets.” He continued, “Today there are 31 farmers markets and we have some of the most progressive organic farmers in the nation working with chefs every day to come up the right mix of crops.” One of the highlights of the ICCA Summit was a panel discussion that included Higgins; Sam Currie, district manager from Bon Appetit Management Company, a division of Compass; and Anthony Boutard, Farmer-Owner of Ayers Creek Farm. They shared the system that has been created to increase dialogue between farmer and chef to help both businesses thrive and become profitable. Higgins added, “I work with over 40 growers on the seasonal rotation of crops, it feeds our creativity and helps to keep us competitively priced.” The panel all agreed that it is good for the community when farmers succeed. They discussed that cyclical history of local farming where the farms were just on the outskirts of town and transporting the crops at the peak of their maturity ensuring great taste. Today’s land costs and urban sprawl has moved the farms further out and in many cases out of state. Maybe with the increase in transportation costs that will change back. There were quite a few examples of programs that initially were going to increase the cost to the restaurant or chain, but actually became a cost savings. Lenny Scranton from Morrison Healthcare Food Services, another division of Compass, told the audience that Bob Appetit’s success with local and sustainable products has had a major influence on their company. They purchase 18 million eggs each year and targeted Certified Cage Free Eggs as one of their initiatives this year. The estimates began with a 5 cent per case increase, but in the end actually became a cost savings and great story for the customer.
Currie’s district includes 520 cafes in 29 states and he said they actually have had costs savings this year due to their eight year commitment to local and sustainable purchasing. He said that in the cases where they had higher costs, the yield or the shelf life was better actually decreasing waste and saving money. Almost all panelists agreed that it is a long process, but everyone should begin taking immediate steps and set a long-term goal. Currie added, “One step is important and you celebrate that, but then you look back at the past five years and say – wow we have taken a lot of steps.”
The chefs agreed that they look first at quality; there is no replacement for quality. They rank the remaining elements in the search by placing sustainable at the forefront followed by local and then organic. They spoke about the investment for the farmer encouraging proper communication for the relationship to work. In the end Oona Settembre, ICCA Board member, said it best, “If everyone in this room embarked on one initiative that would be a great movement.” She continued, “Maybe local to us is just limiting our purchases to the USA helping our economy and making a huge impact on the carbon footprint.”